A less elegant rival to the Hotel Colón, this 67-room budget-priced option is perfect for anyone with an early train to catch. Adjoining the railway station, it has served as a hotel since opening in 1907. Although retaining most of its original architectural characteristics, it was last refurbished about six years ago and today will suit budget-focused travelers who don't mind modest standards.

You're quite far from other dining options, but the surprisingly elegant, sly-lit, fan-cooled El Dorado restaurant satisfies hunger pangs (even if its menu is severely restricted), and the overly air-conditioned lobby bar offers the usual ham-and-cheese bocaditos and other snacks.

Take a look at various rooms before choosing your favorite, as they vary considerably here. Fortunately they all come freshly kitted out with new tile floors and modern bathrooms, although second-rate mattresses are a let-down. While streetfront rooms with balconies might appeal, you'll regret your decision well before sunrise, when the roar of passing buses and trucks starts up. Take a south-facing room for relatively quiet.