While Playa Rancho Luna may not be the most spectacular beach in Cuba, far from it, it's attractive enough to draw budget vacationers on package tours, and this recently remodeled all-inclusive hotel fits the bill. Cienfuegos is less than 30 minutes drive away. The two-story Bauhaus-style edifice dates from the Soviet era but the purely functional architecture has been enlivened by fresh coats of paint. The hotel reopened in 2005 after lying fallow for several years, but already shows signs of aging anew. Billed as a three-star hotel, it barely makes the grade.

Dolled up with tropical color schemes and rattan furnishings, the 222 bedrooms are comfy enough, but not enough to make you wish to linger, despite international programming on the satellite TVs. Instead, you'll want to spend your time by the gray-sand beach or the Olympic-size pool, both of which are palm-shaded. The two restaurants win no gourmet prizes, and the buffet and a la carte dishes here are limited in range. The cappuccino bar makes amends for coffee addicts.

Entertainment here is ho-hum; the nightclub is desultory. The staff perform cabarets, and work hard to keep guests amused day and night, but there's simply not that much to do after sunset. By day, scuba diving a big draw; the hotel has introductory lessons, and the nearby dive operation has certification courses. And there are a modicum of non-motorized watersport and recreational activities, such as volleyball. However, if you want use the tennis court, bring your own racket and balls! A high point is wide range of tour excursions to the Sierra Escambray, Trinidad, and further afield.