Marea del Portillo, at the island's very southeastern corner, is about as remote a beach resort as you can find in Cuba. That's both good and bad. The hotel complex and nearby ramshackle fishing village of Marea del Portillo occupy a broad bay framed by foothills of the Sierra Maestra, which form a rain shadow. This is Cuba's dry quarter, and cactus stud the parched earth. Just getting there is half the fun – the coast road from Santiago de Cuba is a real roller-coaster offering spectacular views – unless you're tired after a long flight, when the two-hour drive can be brutal.

While the setting is stunning, the beach of coarse gray-brown sand wins no prizes. And you're out in the boondocks and thus totally dependent on the two resort hotels here. Forget city life! The beachfront Club Amigo went up two decades ago to serve budget travelers. A more upscale hilltop property, the newer Farallon del Caribe, was run as a separate hotel. In 2007 the two hotels were amalgamated as the all-inclusive Club Amigo Marea del Portillo. Thus, visitors can now choose between the two distinct sections.

The beachfront site's ungainly Soviet-inspired architecture has been spruced up with fresh paint, and the airy lobby and glass-walled restaurant with bamboo furniture are attractive. The mainly buffet menu here disappoints, but you're a captive audience. Animaciones (organized activities) are offered around the noisy swimming pool, also the venue for the evening's cabaret-themed entertainment. The Farallon has the best views across the bay towards the Sierra Maestra, although the ten-minute hike to the beach is via a flight of steps. Hence, the cliff-face swimming pool with swim-up bar can get packed. And its choice of restaurants offers greater variety than at the beachfront hotel. The beach disco cranks up after 11pm and is a great place to learn some Cuban moves.

The accommodations are ocean-view at the beachfront section, with 70 air-conditioned rooms in two-story blocks, plus 56 bungalows. Furnishings here are spartan and worn – another reason to opt for the hilltop Farallon section, although the furnishings here are also overdue for upgrading. Both sections have modern bathroom fittings. However, solar panels installed in 2007 at the beachfront section don't seem up to the job of guaranteeing hot water.

The big draw is superb scuba diving. The hotel has an on-site dive outlet offering certification, and there are kayaks and Hobi-Cats. And the sportfishing and local excursions are worthwhile. If all you want is a cheap vacation in the company of mostly Canadian package vacationers, go for it.