The Spanish Sol Meliá chain's deluxe offering at Playa Esmeralda, west of Guardalavaca, is the best all-inclusive hotel in the eastern provinces. Edging up to talcum-fine sands that shelve into waters of Maxfield Parrish-like turquoise blues, it has a superb locale. The snorkeling is splendid. The resort is surrounded on three sides by woodland and a swampy lagoon, goof for birding. Families should look elsewhere, as this hotel is for adults only.

The difficulties of trying to operate so-called luxury hotels in Cuba is well known, but this all-suite resort lives up to its five-star billing. Start with the chilled champagne offered to arriving guests in the atrium lobby with koi pool. The buffets here surpass those in neighboring hotels, and the six specialty restaurants – including the Japanese option – usually don't disappoint. And your one-price-gets-all room rate includes such activities as archery, Hobi-Cats, and even horseback riding. Even the gym earns high marks for its modern, well-maintained equipment. Entertainment is a bit more varied than the usual canned cabarets, which are also offered. Even opera singers are billed! And there's a disco for the late-night crowd to work off any excess energy.

The place is kept spruce, including in the 300 air-conditioned accommodations, done up in peachy tones, with elegant contemporary furniture and even lovely wall murals. That said, it's clear that even this five-star palace has deteriorated since opening a decade ago and is in need of refurbishing, not least in the weary bathrooms. For added luxury, take one of the Garden Villas. Last, we should mention the tremendous staffing here. All in all, one of the best all-inclusive resorts in Cuba.