There's not much choice when it comes to eco-lodges in Cuba. One of the better options is Villa Pinares de Mayarí, deep in the forests of La Mensura National Park, in the Nipe Cristal mountain region northeast of Holguín. Getting there is another matter however. Forget driving yourself – the "road" is a demon, suitable only for the ex-army trucks that will deliver you courtesy of organized tours ofered by Gaviota, which runs the facility.

Set amid pine forest, this mountain resort formerly served the Communist elite, so it comes with a bunch of facilities you wouldn't expect, such as swimming pool (with water slide), gymnasium, tennis court, and even basketball and volleyball courts. The main lodge is vaguely Teutonic.

Made of natural timbers and stone, the 28 guest rooms in A-frame Colorado-style cabins and bungalows are quite charming. Furnishings are at a bare minimum, however, and the two twin beds with flimsy pillows are not the most comfortable you'll ever sleep in. You need to squint to see the tiny TV in your meagerly furnished lounge. Still, you're not here for creature comforts, as the whole rational at Pinares is guided hiking, birding, and horseback trips.